Fernie Revisited: Finding Perfect Lines in the Lizard Range

There's something about Fernie that keeps calling you back. Maybe it's the way the Lizard Range catches the morning light, or how the snow ghosts stand sentinel along ridgelines. But after a return visit to this Rocky Mountain gem, I'm convinced it's the perfect combination of challenging terrain, untouched powder stashes, and authentic mountain town vibes that makes Fernie Alpine Resort a mandatory stop on any serious skier's itinerary.

Last year's introduction came during a polar vortex, but this year revealed Fernie in all its glory. The resort's legendary five bowls unfold like stamps in a traveler's passport, each with its own distinct identity and secrets to discover. Currie Bowl quickly became our favourite destination on this journey. Thanks to favourable wind loading, its perfectly spaced trees offered a playground of possibilities, where each line through the glades felt like discovering a new secret passage.

Finding Our Lines

While cat skiing dominated last year's trip, this season was all about diving deep into the resort's terrain. Snake Ridge, accessed by a short but rewarding hike, proved to be a masterclass in terrain progression. The run begins in welcoming, well-spaced trees where you can find your rhythm, before gradually funneling into tighter drainages that demand precise, short-radius turns. It's the kind of run that keeps you honest, requiring every tool in your skiing toolkit.

Siberia Bowl's Falling Star emerged as another highlight, offering the perfect blend of pitch and preparation. In a resort known for its challenging terrain, these immaculately groomed runs provide both a thrilling descent and a welcome chance to open up your turns. It's this variety that sets Fernie apart – one run you're navigating tight trees, the next you're carving wide turns on pristine corduroy.

The Luxury of Space

Perhaps one of Fernie's best-kept secrets is its lack of crowds. Despite world-class terrain, you'll often find yourself alone on runs, with no lift lines to interrupt your flow. Every chair is ski-on accessible, meaning more time on snow and less time waiting. This sense of space and solitude adds an element of backcountry feel to a resort experience.

Mountain Culture Done Right

Staying at Lizard Creek Lodge proved to be the perfect choice, offering that ideal mix of luxury and mountain authenticity. The Cirque Restaurant, housed within the lodge, surprised us with a sophisticated menu and cocktail program that would feel at home in any major city. Yet at the base of the mountain, the iconic Griz Bar maintained its reputation as the perfect après-ski venue, serving up legendary nachos accompanied by live music and local brews.

The Art of the Return

What makes a second visit to a ski resort special is the familiarity that allows you to dive deeper into its secrets. Armed with knowledge from our previous trip and first-hand recommendations from our long-time friend and speed demon; we could better chase the wind-loaded powder stashes in Currie Bowl and time our runs to catch perfect afternoon light on Falling Star. The mountain revealed new aspects of its personality, like a friend showing you their favourite hidden spots in their hometown.

This year's visit confirmed what last year's polar vortex adventure hinted at – Fernie is more than just another stop on the Powder Highway. It's a resort that rewards those who return, those who take the time to explore its nuances, and those who appreciate that perfect balance of challenge and comfort.

Planning Your Visit

For those inspired to follow in our tracks:

• Lizard Creek Lodge offers the perfect ski-in/ski-out base with unexpected luxury touches
• Don't miss an evening at Cirque Restaurant & Bar for surprisingly sophisticated mountain dining
• Save energy for an après session at the Griz Bar – those nachos are worth saving room for
• Take advantage of the empty slopes and ski-on lifts by starting early and going late
• Challenge yourself with a hike to Snake Ridge, but be ready for those tight drainage exits
• Explore Currie Bowl on wind-loading days for the best powder chances

Whether you're planning your first visit or returning for another chapter, Fernie continues to prove why it's earned its place among North America's must-ski destinations. Just be warned – one visit is rarely enough. This mountain has a way of making you plan your return before you've even left.  ** Special thanks to Scott White for inspiring our return trip and delivering non-stop fun. **